My 87 sas 4runner, it is loaded with the following:
front:
RuffStuff Axle housing, h.p. 5.29 with arb, Custom 30 spline longfields, Chrome hub gears, magnum studs, TG six shooter Knuckles and arms,TG trunnion bearing eliminators, TG 4" spring, bilsteen 5150 shocks
Rear:
5.29 with detroit, TG 5" spring, trail creeper shackle mounts, 1.5 procomp flat block, bilsteen 5150 shocks
4.70 Tg t-case gears
fully trussed front axle
heavy duty long spline cv drive lines
warn 8000 with amsteel blue winch rope
20lb co2 tank
marlin front bumper, sliders, and tube doors
marlin rear bumper
fabricated inner bed panels
91' sr5 4runner seats
Front Parking lights and turn signals combo in stock running lights
tucked magnaflow exhaust from header back
37x12.50x15 iroks with chrome steel rims

mods for the future:
budbuilt skid plate/ crossmember

How about some pics?

i might just be slightly slow but cant finger it out. any suggestions

Below the box where you type the text
Click the browse button
select the picture you want and double click on it
click the Add the file button which is just below and to the right of the browse button
Then the submit button

yes even a I can finger it out. i just had to scroll down who'd of thought

hey rick thanks for the great widshield job. holdin perfect and not a leak all winter. with a little foam tape even the door is leak free

hey zack. if the tires don't fit cut the fenders, bump for new iroks!!!

Oh yeah, I already cut the fenders up pretty good, 37" MTRs fit nicely, forgot to update my Runner's post.
Yeah, Irocs look pretty nice, people really like 'em. I have zero complaints about my MTRs though, they survive the trails really well, ride quiet, air down soft, haven't had one side wall failure.

Mtr's are the way i wanted to go but nobody carries the old style an the new ones only com in a 17" rim for 37's so iroks were the next best thing. They are great in the snow, though the only problem is they rub the frame a little. I might have to step up to a 10" rim to gain some clearance.

I had to fab some bump stops to keep the rear tire from rubbing the frame.

Well its been a few months since ive improved apon the runner and i finally got some spare motivation "$$$$" to continue to build. On tuesday I worked out all the details with dan from Ruff Stuff and got the ball rolling on the new front axle. It will be 62" wms-wms, bobby longs making some custom length 30 splines and now wheel spacers in the front will be a thing of the past. They will have to do on the rear axle until i get some more $$$$'s. The future plan for the rear will be a matching housing with a custom full float from ruff stuff. Cant wait!!!! Pics should be up by next week.

Well the new housing is here and its beefy.

3.5"x .375 dome tubes and a 1\4" thick center section with 1\4" custom diff armor.

I took one last pick of the 4runner with the stock housing before stripping down the axle. I'm not going to miss the 55.5" wms-wms. There is also a pic of the stock housing next to the RS housing. I still have to trim about 3" off of the new housing on the long side but it kind of gives a good comparison in width.

The plan for the RS housing will be:

61" wms-wms
Re-use hp arb third
trunnion bearing eliminators
six stud knuckles
30 spline longfields

Just couldn't help rolling the 37" swampers over to the taco for a pic. This would be a fun build one day.

I got a donar housing with end's from Daniel E. on monday.

First I removed the shock brackets, steering stops and sway bar brackets. Then I ground down all the excess matirial. I even ground the weld for the ball down flush with the tube so there would be less to remove once the ends were off.



The pen mark is what I guesed to be the edge of the flange on the ball. About a 1/4" plus the line. I used my grinder with a cut off wheel to free the ball from the tube. I cut about 1/8" in all the way around on the tube side, leaving the line. I didn't get picture, but I drew some lines for reference. I then cut the tube about 2" from the end, then a cut long ways on the tube all the way to the end. On the long ways cut I only took a little at a time not exceeding 1/8". Then finished cutting the tube all the way around. Using a couple pry bars and hammer I peeled the remaining tube away from the ball. There was a little bit of matirial to remove with grinder when all said and done, but far less then I thought there would be.